Le mai dernier, je suis allés en Bretagne la première fois. Je suis allée parce que la mer me manquait. Quand j’ai dit à mon locateur que je veux passer du temps sur la mer, elle m’a proposé de visiter la Bretagne, la région où elle a agrandi. Elle a suggéré en particulier Paimpol. La Bretagne est situé dans l’ouest du pays. Elle forme une péninsule qui s'avance dans la mer (Manche au Nord et océan Atlantique à l'ouest et au sud). Paimpol est l’un des principaux ports de pêche et de plaisance donnant sur la Manche. J’ai écrit de mon week-end à Paimpol ici.
As much as I love living in Paris and have absolutely NO regrets about making the move, in May of last year, I found myself thinking more and more about the coming summer in Paris, dreading the week or more of stultifying temperatures of 28+ degrees C and no air conditioning. And I really missed the sea. Perhaps I could find the French equivalent of Amagansett on the eastern end of Long Island, where for years I (and my ex-husband) were fortunate to have a small rental and hence access to the gorgeous Atlantic Ocean beaches that grace the south fork. Or more realistically the equivalent of the calmer waters of Long Island Sound on the north fork. I started talking to friends and learned that Brittany might be what I was looking for. I asked my landlord, who grew up there, if she could recommend a nice week-end Breton trip. She recommended Paimpol, one of Brittany’s primary fishing and recreational ports on the English Channel and an easy 3-hour train ride from Paris. I rented a charming apartment on the water (when the tide was in!) and spent several days walking the GR-34, marveling at the enormous tides, visiting Beauport Abby and the charming Ile de Bréhat. I wrote about that trip here.
Brittany's location in France
Paimpol
Beauport Abby
Charming Ile de Bréhat
Je pense que c’est ce séjour à Paimpol qui a commencé mon histoire d’amour avec la Bretagne. En juillet j’ai rendu une visite à mon amie, Maddy, qui a une maison à Pleubian, près de Paimpol. Il faisait très beau en juillet. Nous avons fait plusieurs randonnés sur la côte et chaque jour nous avons nagé dans la Marche très froid (à mon avis….Maddy a adoré).
I think it was this trip to Paimpol that started my love affair with Brittany. In July a friend (Maddy) invited me to spend a few days at her house in Pleubian, a coastal area not far from Paimpol. The weather was perfect (and to make it even sweeter, Paris was in the middle of a heatwave). Maddy and I walked a different part of the coast each day and then rewarded ourselves with a bracing swim in the Channel….a bit cold for me, but Maddy loves it and always outlasted me….30 minutes to my 10!
Maddy on the GR-34 in July
J’ai commencé penser y acheter une maison et en août , j’ai trouvé une maison, j’ai fait une proposition et j’ai signé un compromis de vente. En octobre le vente était finalisé et je suis devenue le propriétaire de La Croix Rouge, à Gommenec’h, un petit village entre Guingamp et Paimpol dans le département des Côtes d’Armor en région Bretagne.
Maddy loves Brittany and was encouraging when I told her I was interested in possibly buying there. We made a few enquiries and I continued my search online when I returned to Paris. Within days I had found a listing that looked promising. So back to Brittany….Maddy and I looked at 4 houses and in August, I made an offer and signed a contract. The sale was finalized in October and I am now the proud owner of La Croix Rouge (the red cross) in Gommenec’h, a tiny village between Guingamp and Paimpol in the region of Côtes d’Armor, which means coasts by the sea (“ar mor” is “the sea” in Breton).
La Croix Rouge....name of my house and also it's address....La Croix Rouge, Gommenec'h 22290....that's it! And it shows up on GPS....
Back of La Croix Rouge at sunset
Donc, peu à peu, je découvre la Bretagne, et je partage avec vous ce que j’ai déçu jusqu’à présent.
Il y a quatre départements en Bretagne : Ile-et-Vilaine (l’est), Morbihan (le sud), Finistère (l’ouest) et Côtes d’Armor (le nord). La Croix Rouge est dans les Côtes d’Armor, et c’est le seule département que je connais. Alors j’en parle.
Pour moi, ce que j’aime des Côtes d’Armor sont le littoral de 350 km sur la Manche avec sa marée énorme, de nombreuses plages de sable fin encaissées entre collines ou falaises, et bien sûr le GR® 34, sentier des douaniers, borde l’ensemble des côtes bretonnes sur plus de 2000 kilomètres. Aussi j’aime les paysages préservés remplie avec des maison en pierres, des petites villages charmants et le bocage (hedged farmland) qui entourent ma maison.
So little by little I am discovering Brittany….I share with you here what I have found so far.
The name Britannia was brought to the region in the 5th century by Britons escaping the Anglo-Saxon invasion of Britain. They also brought the Celtic language, Breton, which is still spoken in some rural areas. I see the Breton language everywhere as all signs are both in French and Breton….so now not only do I have to master French, but Breton as well!
Gommenec'h (French) Gouanach (Breton)
There are four regions in Brittany: Ile-et-Vilaine in the east; Morbihan in the south; Finistère in the west and Côtes d’Armor in the north. As my house is in the Côtes d’Armor, it’s the only region I know and so I speak of it here.
What I love about Côtes d’Armor are the 350 kilometers of coastline on the English Channel with its enormous tides, numerous sand beaches nestled between small mountains and craggy cliffs, and to be sure, the GR-34, the coastal footpath or customs trail that winds its way along the 2000 kilometer coastline of the whole of Brittany. And I love the unspoiled countryside with its charming small villages, stone houses and hedged farmlands like those that surround my house.
GR-34 (in red) circumnavigates Brittany
La côte de Goëlo
Goëlo était un ancien pays de Bretagne, de la baie de St. Brieuc jusqu’à l’embouchure du fleuve Trieux. Aujourd’hui on voit beaucoup de références à Goëlo dans cette région. La côte du Goëlo possède de nombreux ports de pêche et des plages mais aussi des falaises sauvages et préservées. C’est la côte le plus près du ma maison et puis j’y marche souvent.
Within the region of Côtes d’Armor are two coastal regions: Côte de Goëlo (ancient Breton region) and the more well-known Côte de Granit Rose (pink granite). The Côte de Goëlo basically runs from St. Brieuc to Paimpol with numerous fishing ports, beaches, towering cliffs and conservation areas. It’s the coastal area closest to my house and I therefore walk there quite often.
Paimpol, l’Abbaye de Beauport and Ile de Bréhat
….see previous post here.
posted 5 June 2019
Plouha et la plage Bonaparte
La plage Bonaparte....my favorite beach and also the closest to my house….15 minutes. Just learned that the cliffs there are the highest in Brittany and I’m not surprised. The walk along GR-34 is absolutely spectacular. And the beach, when the tide is out, is deep and wide.
Entrance to plage Bonaparte in July
La plage in July
in July
The cliffs from the beach in July
La plage in October
Abandoned house above plage Bonaparte....can't get enough photos of this cottage....
Plage Bonaparte and cottage from cliff above....
Plage Bonaparte at high tide
Coastline from the GR-34:
Storm approaching
Kayaking in October
I came upon this farm at the top of one of the cliffs and had a nice chat with the farmer who asked if I wanted to buy it!
Cows with the best view in the world....
St. Quay-Portrieux
Fishing port (in particular scallops, my favorite mollusk) and summer resort with three lovely beaches.
Love the white fencing along the GR-34
Colorful bathhouses.....
Beautiful even in the rain....
Seawater pool at Plage Châtelet
Binic
Binic is another small port and summer resort with sandy beaches and spectacular stretch of the GR-34.
House with a view....there is very little development on the coastline....this is an exception to that rule.
On the summit with Binic in the background....photo taken by a jogger who then proceeded to "run" down the mountain.....I walked slowly and carefully....no jogging here for me.
Joggers
Binic from the summit
The Côte de granit rose will have to wait for another post. But here's a preview.....
